The omnipresence of the sound of water: rain on graveled walks, the lakeside terraces, the red pantiles of Bellagio. At Paestum we had not heard it. An acreage of thyme, winnowed by sea breezes. A line of blue out past the silted harbor— unauthenticated because unheard, a scene one might have dreamed. At Herculaneum, a stoppage of the ears.
Cicadas mute, an oleander stillness. Rancor of cypresses. Impacted fire. Pur örök anti aging ribaldry strangling in hot mud up to the nostrils.
Water stricken from the ledgers of memory. Once in the night I woke and knew it had been raining— not from the sound but from the smell, as though an animal had left its spoor. Under an aspect less clement, the trickle of sewers, the vine-patched bombholes, bambini with no underpants, gnarled woman wearing the black of perpetual resignation, might have figured more gravely than as a condiment, garlic for a week of living well.
Aboard the wagons-lits we pur örök anti aging Est! We passed the Apennines asleep, and woke in a country where pur örök anti aging color of the olive trees was rainy. Gray rain muddying the emerald of ricefields, blurring, across the flood plain of the Po, the vague geometry of poplars on the march—a part of some interminable uprising. At Milan a drizzle, the boulevards inlaid with dun-colored patines, the slough of plane trees.
A car sent from the villa, behind whose steamed windows we talk as freely as though the driver had no ears.
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Glimpsing through sheets of rain, the first gray-green, narrow windings of Lake Como, the red pantiles of Monza and Lecco, the little farms, the villa walls sequestering unimagined pleasures. The starred darkness of lemon trees through the downpour.
Gravel under our shoes, a footman holding an umbrella.
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All as in that terrifying place where no one is admitted whose taste is not impeccable. The scuffed suitcase cannot escape: as soon as your back is turned, they have already unpacked it.
Out on the lake a white traghetto, moving almost without pause from one shore to the other, a punctual amphibious spider, skeins into one zigzag the descending clatter from the campaniles of Bellagio, of Varenna and Cadenabbia, as though reining the fragments of experience into one process— being-and-becoming fused, a single scheme.
The rustle of descending silk these shores being mulberry countrythe curtains drawn against the prerogative of the chambermaids, behind closed doors, having had our tea, conspiratorially, two high-church Episcopalians, we begin to read aloud the office of Compline.
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The damask weave of luxury, the arras of melodrama. A wailing about the eaves.
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The villa, acquired by caprice, became her favorite household. Though in the way of moral character not much is to be expected, noblesse oblige: the servants— eighty of them altogether—must be provided for. Emissaries of those foundations into which the larger fortunes have unavoidably been siphoned were circuitously whispered to; and so, the times being what they have become, the princeliest of the seventeen bedrooms, stripped of its cushier urgings to dalliance, is now a conference room—this week for a conclave of jurisprudes, the week after for experts in the field of public health concerning the eradication of malaria.
Reclamation of the land: the labor gangs, the overseers, the seasonal migrations, pur örök anti aging Lombard plain at last made habitable, a source of fortunes: irrigated water meadows, ricefields, wheat, mulberries, the channeled music of the Po, the Oglio, the Adda, the Ticino.
Landed estates. Walled properties above Lake Como, for the view. A rural proletariat whose fortunes and miseries go unrecorded.
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In her declining years the Principessa was to be seen leaning, as she made her rounds nuzzled in sable against the lake damp, on the arm of her butler. The indispensable tyranny of servants. Gardeners, kitchen maids, woodcutters, grooms, footmen. Private secretaries. Above the fever trap of the Maremma the ritual complicity: in castle towers the secret stair, the cached aconite, the hired assassin.
The wealth of nations. The widening distance between rich and poor, between one branch and another of the tree of misery. Among the company at dinner, Professor B. The weather in Italy, he says, is changing.
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Now that charcoal is no longer burned extensively, the forests have grown up again, forests draw moisture—Ecco! Flooding along the Po, the Pur örök anti aging, the Ticino. Dykes giving way at Ferrara, inundations at Rimini, the beetfields of Ravenna already under water. What does a place like this not offer? Flawless cuisine, a first-rate cellar, mountain footpaths laced with wild cyclamen and maidenhair; topiary, sunken gardens, wood nymphs and a dying slave in marble; even, when nothing short of total solitude will do, a hermitage.
She speaks three languages and has had six proposals. Since January her existence has been an exercise in living like a Principessa. Her father still cannot fathom what has happened.
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He points, appealing, to a letter on the hall table, overhung by the And will she be free to leave if she should wish to? He, for one, does not believe it. They will wear her down in that enclosed community, those Anglican Benedictines. She will become nothing other than a model prisoner.
That, as he understands it, is the long and short of what what they call formation amounts to. One might have said by way of a response but did not that living under vows, affianced to a higher poverty, might likewise be an exercise in living well.
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Her last evening amounts to an exercise in prevarication. Where precisely she is going, and why, she has given up explaining. Dinner is a banquet. A halt somewhere along the way, the rain slackening and closing in again like trees in a landscape, to snitch grapes from a vineyard.
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Antique U. My friends dancing the cha-cha-cha, engaging in mock flirtations with a moody Italian, then with a cheerful one whose profession entails the proliferation of supermarkets. A prolonged huddle with the cheerful one. Emerging, they announce they have an announcement: they have decided to get married for about a week.
Everybody is going away tomorrow. We say goodbye to the jurisprudes, the young footman standing expressionless beside the door.